Hey Jeremy, this is the 46th column I've written… one every two weeks(ish) for the last two years. And, funny enough, this is the first time we've tackled one of my favorite, most important (and underrated) clothing items: a NAVY BLAZER.
If I had to name a single item that best represents what we do, this is probably it. We think the Navy Blazer is so classic, so iconic, such a symbol of manhood, that it can transform a day into an occasion, a closet into a wardrobe, a guy into a man… you get the idea. Awhile back, we ran a dedicated feature on ours that includes a fabric primer, pops the hood on construction, and even outlines all the ways you can wear it. And even though that was from a few years back, all the information is evergreen… we still use it today as a primer for new hires to go deep on fabrics, design details, styling, and usage.
So yeah, I guess you could say we're passionate about the subject. And your timing is great because we're noticing a loooottt more jackets on guys these days. Perhaps it's some course-correction from WFH fatigue, or maybe guys are just motivated because they're going out and to the office again. Whatever the reason, this feels like the perfect time to invest (or re-invest) in the one garment that will look just as good in Paris, Texas as it will in Paris, France.
While we make seasonal versions (think tonal seersucker for summer or soft cashmere for winter,) we've narrowed down our year-round, "go anywhere in the world, any time" navy blazers to just three. We talk a lot about our Navy High Twist – a very special, two-ply two-ply high-twist wool from England, and a fabric we love enough to use for suits in shades of gray and blue and even a lovat green. We also talk a lot about our Navy Leno Hopsack – the one I'm wearing in that video. It's a cotton/wool blend and comes in our Virgil model, which was designed as a fresher, sexier version of a sack jacket. We also run that one in other colors; I wear the green one a ton. Both are fantastic blazers and worthy candidates. But, for you, I think the "if you can only have one" navy blazer is our Mohair Huckaback Kincaid No. 3.
It's got the same design (the Kincaid body) and craftsmanship (our No. 3 level of make) as the high-twist wool, and actually a lot of our jackets and suits. It's made in Italy with a natural shoulder and a full canvas that allows it to mold to your body. We use the finest, oldest, handmade tailoring techniques in the world - and no fusing - to make our full canvas garments. A full canvas construction allows it to adapt to the shape of your body over time, where a fused jacket remains stiff and doesn't move with your body. Like all the Kincaids, it's got a darted body, a 2-button front, and side vents. There's even a ticket pocket in case you need to hop on a train. Also great for keys/Airpods/parking tickets.
So the thing that sets this one apart is the fabric: 260g English huckaback, made with a 60/40 mohair and wool blend. This fabric begs a closer look. It has a little touch, and a little crunch but is still quite soft. The weave is super cool and breathes beautifully, and the mohair gives it a springiness that helps it resist wrinkles. A fantastic travel jacket. There's a slight sheen to the surface, which means it can go a little more formal and has more range than our other navy blazers. And it will get softer and pick up a patina over time. I've had my huckaback for a decade… so while it's certainly an investment, the cost per wear is pretty low when you wear it once a week for 10 years.
Lastly, the versatility of this thing is unbelievable. Not that you didn't know this - I'm sure that's part of the reason you're in the market for one - but I'm a visual guy and we put together this matrix to illustrate the range that a navy blazer (any navy blazer) has. It's broken out by levels of formality on the Y axis and climate on the X axis) and shows how it really is an anyplace, anytime piece.
Hope this answers it for you, Jeremy. If you still need help narrowing it down, give us a call… any of our guys would love to chat more. And thank you for the fun excuse to go deep on a favorite subject.