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High Twist Wool

We used this English high-twist wool for the very first suit we ever made. It’s fine and smooth and a little bit crunchy, with a slightly open (read: breathable) weave because the yarns are twisted more tightly than in a typical worsted. That also gives it excellent bounce-back. You have to work pretty hard to wrinkle it — and even when you do, a quick overnight hang will usually have it looking fresh again — so it’s especially good for travel. Between the resilience and the breathability, it’s a true 365-days-a-year fabric.

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Cellulare – pronounced ‘chell-you-lah-ray’ – is one of our favorite warm-weather fabrics from Italy. Lightweight and airy, it’s a super special, open weave that can look like honeycomb, latticework, or a cellular network up close. Cellulare naturally leans more casual, but can also be dressed up on occasion. We recommend hang-drying to preserve the openness of the weave and prevent too much shrink.

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40momme Silk

When it comes to silk, 40momme crepe de chine is our go-to. Momme (pronounced ‘mommy’) is the unit by which silk is measured, so this one's just about as heavy and luxe as it gets. Don’t let the weight throw you off… while this quality is dense and lush, it’s also pretty seasonless. Most of us wear it all year round, unless we’re in particularly hot climates without AC. (Silk has natural temperature-regulating properties.) The finish is lustrous without being too shiny. Long story short, this fabric is beautiful.

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With any true indigo fabric (like this one,) there’s a risk of color transfer — called crocking — in which some of the blue rubs off on light-colored fabrics or your skin. This effect is most pronounced the first time you wear it, but it usually comes out in the washing machine or the shower. It’s inherent to natural indigo dye, and it’s part of what makes those garments fade so beautifully over time. Still, for the first few wears, we recommend laundering separately and staying away from light-colored upholstery.

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